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The Ted Hughes' memorial

The late Poet Laureate, Ted Hughes lived in Devon for almost 40 years, until his death in 1998. He loved Dartmoor and so it seems fitting that in a fairly remote area in the upper Taw valley a large granite block inscribed with his name has been placed at SX 609865. How did the memorial get there? It is of Dartmoor granite, but from another part of the moor. Maybe it was a military exercise? Some say that a helicopter was used, with the agreement of Prince Charles who owns the area and was apparently a friend of the poet. What is certain is that the Duchy of Cornwall doesn't usually permit memorials on Dartmoor. Simon Hall of the BBC found it after searching for 2 years. Ted Hughes's will asked for this stone, and after some very cryptic clues from the poet's friends he discovered it on top of an inconspicuous mound.
Although the memorial is remote it is easy to get to. But some of the more inaccessible parts of North Dartmoor can be reached from here. This walk also visits the heads of three of the main rivers of Devon - the Taw, the Dart and the Teign. The Taw and Dart heads are very near each other being simply separated by a ridge of granite. The upper East Dart valley is one of the most secluded places on Dartmoor and has a desolate air that is not to everyone's taste.
Approach the Observation Post 15 (SX 603878) by the military road from Okehampton Camp. Park, take a southerly bearing and head down the rough path. As the path turns to the east carry on south beside the Taw valley. Cross the stream at any convenient place and head up the narrow valley to get to the broad watershed at the top. Carry on south keeping the East Dart to your right (ie. west) and walk over the rough ground for a mile or so until you get to a tinner's hut beside the stream. Then head east towards Quintin's Man skirting the wet grass of Teign head on your right (ie. south) as you go. The walking is a bit easier than the previous section. From Quintin's Man you can take the well worn track along the ridge to Whitehorse Hill and Hangingstone. After admiring the view, head NW down the slope, passing the namesake rock and make for a low mound in the upper Taw valley. This may be awkward walking. From the memorial mound it is 10 mins to get to the military track and thence back to OP15.
Allow 4 - 5 hours for the 7 miles walk  - which is not an easy one. In winter, or in the mist some of this area is very exposed and lonely. It could get wet underfoot but there are no really boggy places apart from the heads themselves.
This area lies in the army firing range, so it shouldn't be approached if a red flag is flying nearby. Weekends and August is usually just fine.
 
A view from near OP15 - SX 603878.
Signs of army activity? Spotted at SX 607867.
A northerly view over the upper Taw valley from SX 607862. Near the skyline lies Cosdon hill with Belstone on the left.
The steep banks of the Taw valley. Taw head lies above this valley in a wide shallow pan. This valley is a lip that drains the pan into the Taw stream.
The view down the upper Taw valley from the steep banks. The weather has been quite dry so the streambed is not very obvious.
The watershed at Taw Head - SX 609858. The view is pointing north so any rain falling in this area will end up in the Taw. However just behind to the south we have East Dart Head.
Looking west over the wet grass of East Dart Head.
The peaty wastes of East Dart Head. From here it is 46 miles to Dartmouth where the Dart enters the sea.
One of the feeder tributaries of the East Dart - SX 609855. Black Hill is on the horizon.
Looking south down the upper East Dart valley - SX 612846. This is a pretty isolated spot and in thick mist would have it's own special atmosphere. Cut Hill lies straight ahead.
Tinner's hut beside the East Dart - SX 609841.
The upper East Dart valley.
Looking east over Teign Head - the cairn and army post at Quintin's Man can be seen on the horizon.
Teign Head from SX 615841. On the horizon is the featureless mound of Winney's Down with the stream of the Teign just in front.
Looking west towards Black Hill over the grassland of Teign Head.
The view east from Quintin's man. Fernworthy Forest is easily seen with Shovel Down just to the left of it.
Looking south from the cairn of Quintin's man. The odd name of Quintin's man may derive from the old word "maen" meaning stone. But there is now no trace of a standing stone or other special stone - if there ever was one.
Remains of a peat cutter's shelter at SX 617848.
Peat pass on Whitehorse Hill - SX 615851. This pass leads westwards down from Whitehorse Hill down to East Dart head. This photo shows how much peat has been removed from the top of Whitehorse Hill.
A close up of the memorial stone marking the start of the peat pass. It is dedicated to Frank Crossing who constructed many of Dartmoor's peat passes.
An easterly view of another Peat cutter's shelter near to Whitehorse hill.
Moute's Inn - SX 618853 - the third peat cutter's shelter on Whitehorse Hill. Some say that this is the highest inn in England.
The diminutive cairn of Whitehorse Hill. This cairn is repeatedly rearranged by walkers and is decidedly unimpressive for such a high place.
Peaty ground at SX 617858 between Whitehorse and Hangingstone Hill. In wet weather this would be awkward ground.
A north west view from Hangingstone Hill - High Willhays, Yes tor, West and East Mill tors are in the background.
The Hangingstone rock (SX 616862) with a good view over North Dartmoor.
Another view of Hangingstone rock. The logan (or rocking) nature of this stone is quite obvious in this shot. Alas it no longer rocks. Eric Hemery blames the army for this.
We are approaching the mound of the memorial stone in the upper Taw valley from the NW slope of Hangingstone Hill. In wet weather or in the winter this would be rather tiresome ground to walk over.
A remnant of army activity in the upper Taw valley.
Ted Hughes's memorial stone with an inscription to the poet.
Ted Hughes's memorial stone on top of a grassy mound (SX 609865)- probably once the spoil heap of medieval tinners. The Taw valley lies behind.
The military road that leads from the Taw ford back to OP15. The view is NE towards Steeperton. We return in the other direction.
 


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